How to make the perfect chocolate roulade – recipe

It's the fudgy crumbs, cracked casing and luxurious cream center that elevate this French showstopper above everyday swiss rolls.

I tried to start these columns with an open mind: engaging in the spirit of strict scientific neutrality in the pursuit of culinary perfection. This week, however, as I rolled roulade after roulade, whipped cream gently spilling onto the counter in front of me, I realized I was not only striving for perfection, but also trying to recreate a very specific decades-old sensory memory. Chocolate roulades were first mentioned in the British Newspaper Archives in 1976, but references peaked in the late 1990s, when they also appeared at every special event I attended as a greedy teenager, often accompanied by the equally fashionable fruit coulis. .

Strictly speaking, of course, roulade simply refers to whatever is rolled – beef olives are a roulade, as are involtini and French cream cheese seasoned with herbs and garlic – but these roulades are always sweet and rich enough to react badly with pain. recommended glass of wine drunk beforehand. They were also so delicious that we didn't care. But even if you don't have the same fond memories, roulades have a few things to recommend as a festive dessert: they're best made ahead of time, they're often gluten-free and they look good. So embrace this retro Christmas – a classic for a reason.

try to start this column with an open mind: engage in the spirit of strict scientific neutrality in the pursuit of culinary perfection. This week, however, as I rolled roulade after roulade, whipped cream gently spilling onto the counter in front of me, I realized I was not only striving for perfection, but also trying to recreate a very specific decades-old sensory memory. Chocolate roulades were first mentioned in the British Newspaper Archives in 1976, but references peaked in the late 1990s, when they also appeared at every special event I attended as a greedy teenager, often accompanied by the equally fashionable fruit coulis.

Strictly speaking, of course, roulade simply refers to whatever is rolled – beef olives are a roulade, as are involtini and French cream cheese seasoned with herbs and garlic – but these roulades are always sweet and rich enough to react badly with pain. recommended glass of wine drunk beforehand. They were also so delicious that we didn't care. But even if you don't have the same fond memories, roulades have a few things to recommend as a festive dessert: they're best made ahead of time, they're often gluten-free and they look good. So embrace this retro Christmas – a classic for a reason.

That said, neither of these recipes worked for me - I remember roulades of yore having a sweet, crunchy shell and a slightly gooey interior, like a meringue roll, while these all looked more like swiss bread which might be fine. it's tempting to cover it with chocolate icing and decorate it like a charming rustic log. I spent some time fruitlessly trying to establish the technical differences between swiss roll and roulade (and concluding that swiss roll is just a type of roulade), before cutting to the chase and tackling a recipe by Melbourne baker Nat Paull that seemed to fit the bill. It's similar to Berry and Leiths, in that it uses whipped egg whites flavored with sugar and chocolate, but instead of folding in the yolks too, to create a fudgy result, Paull leaves them as meringue, making them sweeter, but almost meaty. -Free. This is the roulade I was looking for, with a sweet, crunchy outer layer that makes a lovely contrast to the rich, creamy filling and both softened by its chocolate bitterness. Right on target.

For meringues

• 50g cocoa powder, plus extra for dusting
• 1 tsp seasoning mix (optional)
• 50g dark chocolate or chocolate chips (optional)
• 180g egg whites (ie, from 5 large eggs or 6 small eggs)
• a pinch of salt
• ¼ tsp cream of tartar, or ½ tsp neutral vinegar or lemon juice
• 300 grams of caster sugar

For stuffing

• 250ml double cream
• 200g sweet chestnut puree (or use plain puree with whipped icing sugar to taste)

A handful of fruit of your choice – I used cherries in brandy

Preheat oven to 160C (140C fan)/325F/gas 3, and line a shallow oven tray of approx. 22cm x 30cm with parchment paper.

Strain cocoa and spice mix, if using, into a bowl and set aside. Cut the chocolate into chips, if necessary.

Place the egg whites in a large bowl or food mixer with the salt and cream of tartar, beat until smooth, then gradually beat in the sugar until the meringue mixture is thick and glossy and releases from the whisks.

Add the cocoa and most of the chocolate chips and fold until just combined, being careful not to release too much air.

Spoon the meringue onto a lined tray in a single layer and gently smooth the top, to even it out, retaining as much air as possible.

Sprinkle the remaining chocolate on top, then bake for 30-40 minutes, until the meringue is dry to the touch on top, but still squid underneath. Remove and leave to cool on the tray.

Once the meringue has cooled, start filling.

Whip the cream until fluffy and creamy, then stir in the chestnut puree and taste – don't get too sweet, as it will pair well with the meringue, but adjust if necessary.

Place a large sheet of clingfilm (you can also use waxed paper or tea towels, but I find clingfilm easiest here) on a work surface and dust with cocoa powder.

Carefully flip the meringue over, with the long side parallel to the long side of the clingfilm, then rotate it so that one short side is facing you. Score shallow cuts across the width of the meringue, about 2 cm from the end closest to you.

Spread the cream all over the top of the meringue, then sprinkle it over the fruit, if using, and line a row of fruit roughly where you made the cut: this will become the center of the roulade later.

Using the clingfilm to help you, tuck the nearest end of the meringue over the fruit line, then roll everything up as tightly as you can, ending with the seam underneath. The roulade should be completely wrapped in clingfilm, and can now be refrigerated until ready to serve, and ideally for at least two hours.

Transfer the rollade seam-side down to a plate, carefully unwrap it, sprinkle with more cocoa powder and serve.